Burmese Python Care Guide

Natural History

The IUCN Red List assesses the conservation status of species, ranging from Least Concern (LC) to Extinct (EX). Burmese pythons (Python bivittatus) are classified as Vulnerable due to habitat loss, hunting for their skin, and collection for the pet trade. While captive breeding has helped alleviate some pressure on wild populations, these threats continue to impact the species' overall conservation status.

Burmese Pythons were among the first snakes in the reptile hobby to feature a 'morph,' playing a pivotal role in shaping the hobby we know today. While they hold an important place in reptile history, their large size makes them a better fit for experienced keepers with the space and resources to accommodate their needs.

Burmese pythons are members of the Pythonidae family of snakes, containing approximately 40 recognized species (Pyron et al., 2011; Reynolds et al., 2014). These species are primarily distributed across Africa, Asia, and Australia, with a few species found in Papua New Guinea and surrounding islands. Fossil evidence (Head and Holroyd, 2014) shows that pythons originated in the Late Cretaceous period, roughly 65 million years ago, during the final stages of the age of dinosaurs. From what I can find, molecular evidence is not currently available to estimate the evolutionary time frame for the origination of the species. However, we do know that the Burmese python (Python bivittatus) was first described as a distinct species in 1820 by German naturalist Heinrich Kuhl. Initially, it was considered a subspecies of the Indian python (Python molurus) and referred to as Python molurus bivittatus. However, more recent taxonomic and genetic studies elevated the Burmese python to full species status due to significant morphological and genetic differences from the Indian python Jacobs et al. (2009).

The Burmese python (Python bivittatus) is native to Southeast Asia and is widely distributed across countries such as Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, and parts of China and Indonesia (Reed & Rodda, 2009). Its range includes various ecosystems, from tropical forests and grasslands to marshes and swamps, often near water sources where it thrives due to its semi-aquatic nature (Walters et al., 2016). Burmese pythons are also found on several islands, including Java, Borneo, and Sumatra, where they adapt to the local conditions and contribute to the ecological dynamics as apex predators (Reed & Rodda, 2009).

As generalist carnivores, Burmese pythons primarily feed on mammals and birds, with their diet varying depending on the availability of prey in their habitat. In their invasive range in Florida, they have been documented consuming larger animals, such as white-tailed deer and alligators, demonstrating their adaptability and impact on local ecosystems (Snow et al., 2007).

Supporting Literature for Ball Pythons

Captive Care and Husbandry

What to do before you get a Burmese Python:

First and foremost, do you have what it takes to responsibly care for a giant snake like a Burmese python? This responsibility hinges on two critical factors that are often underestimated. First is cage size. If you cannot immediately provide an 8-foot enclosure from the moment you bring your Burmese python home, this is not the snake for you. Never purchase an animal with the hope that you will eventually have the space. Proper care starts with proper planning, and if you don’t have the space now, it won’t magically appear when you need it. The snake’s well-being depends on your ability to meet its needs from day one.

Second is adhering to strict safety protocols. While Burmese pythons can be gentle giants, they are not domesticated animals like dogs, which have co-evolved with humans for over 10,000 years. These snakes are apex predators with less than a century of captive history, making safety an absolute priority. Cage security, room security, and overall building (home) security are essential to prevent accidents or escapes. Do you have children, pets, or frequent visitors? If so, treat the presence of a large snake in your home with the same level of caution you would a firearm—safety always comes first. While fatalities are rare, there are numerous documented cases in the United States of keepers being hospitalized or seriously injured by large snakes. For Burmese pythons exceeding 10 feet in length, we follow a strict rule: the enclosure never opens without two people present. While snakes of this size cannot consume a human, they are strong enough to overpower one. Some keepers might consider this level of caution excessive, but without proper safety procedures, the risks far outweigh the rewards. Preparation and precautions are non-negotiable for ensuring the safety of both the snake and everyone around it.

Before purchasing a Burmese python, thorough research and preparation are essential. Understand their natural behaviors, their potential to grow to over 15 feet in length, and their lifespan of 20–30 years, which requires a significant long-term commitment. Have an enclosure ready before bringing one home. Maintain proper temperature and humidity using reliable thermostats and hygrometers to create a stable and stress-free environment. Always purchase from a reputable breeder who can provide health records and feeding schedules, and prioritize captive-bred snakes, as they are healthier and less stressed than wild-caught specimens. If you already own other reptiles, quarantine new Burmese pythons for at least 30 days to prevent the spread of potential diseases. Allow your new snake at least a week to acclimate before handling or feeding, and provide hiding spots to help it feel secure in its new environment.

Housing Options:

Burmese pythons can thrive in various types of enclosures, each with its pros and cons. Snake racks can work for some sizes of Burmese pythons (like the ARS 9706 or Freedom Breeder 66-4/66-6) but this would be for smaller individuals. Rubbermaid or Sterilite tubs are another cost-effective option, often used in racks or independently. While these are excellent for humidity control and hatchlings or juveniles, they are not practical for the size and strength of an adult Burmese python. We do not recommend glass terrariums for Burmese pythons much beyond a few feet in length. PVC enclosures are an excellent choice and what we suggest. They are durable, lightweight, and well-insulated, making them ideal for long-term use. They come in larger dimensions to accommodate the size of a Burmese python. Wooden vivariums are a common DIY option for large snakes, but they require sealing to prevent water damage and regular maintenance to ensure durability.

For keepers seeking a naturalistic setup, bioactive enclosures provide enrichment through live plants and a cleanup crew, offering unmatched aesthetics and sustainability. However, they require significant effort and space to accommodate the size and needs of a Burmese python. Due to the large size and strength of these snakes, any enclosure must be secure, sturdy, and spacious enough to allow for natural behaviors. Each enclosure type caters to different needs, so the best choice depends on your budget, experience, and goals as a keeper. For a more detailed exploration of housing options, see our "Caging Options" page under the "Husbandry Hub" tab.

Cage Sizes:

When Burmese pythons are smaller and still growing, they can be housed in caging very similar to what a baby Ball python or Boa can be housed in. We start babies in a hatchling rack (ARS 1075) in tubs that are 21 x 9.5 x 3.5 inches. These tubs are temporary to keep humidity high and to make the newborns feel secure. After several months, they are moved into a juvenile rack (ARS 5540) in tubs that are 33.5 x 13 x 5.25 inches. Rarely, if ever, do we recommend solid color tubs, opaque and clear tubs provide visual stimuli for your animals. Individuals who are prone to stress can be housed in darker tubs to reduce stress but we do not start with that option. For an individual animal, we suggest starting Burmese pythons in a minimum terrarium size in a 20-gallon long terrarium (30 x 12 x 12 inches) but these snakes grow quickly so a 40-gallon terrarium (36 x 18 x 16 inches) is more economical for the first few years of life. Beyond that, we suggest moving straight to PVC enclosures, and generally not those available from pet stores and quick-build shops. Burmese pythons are remarkably strong (Penning et al., 2015) and are able to bend thin acrylic doors and crack non-tempered glass. Many options are available for high-quality custom PVC enclosures. We enjoy the look and quality from toadranch.com.

Male Burmese pythons reach a maximum size that is often much smaller (7-10 ft) than their female counterparts (9-15 ft). Many individuals can get larger than what we report here, but that is likely due to captive overfeeding and a sedentary life. At a minimum, we suggest at least 1.5-2 sq ft of cage surface area per linear foot of snake. This would be a 3 ft snake living in a 3 x 2ft enclosure, a 6 ft snake living in a 4 x 2 ft enclosure, and a 9-10ft snake living in either a 5 x 4 ft enclosure or a 8 x 2 ft enclosure. Humans are notoriously bad at understanding how things scale with size. For example, a 9 ft Burmese python living in a 4 x 3ft enclosure (a rather large space), is no different than a baby Ball python living temporarily in a 10-gallon terrarium (~1.4 sq ft).

Scientific Literature:

• Dorcas, M. E., Willson, J. D., & Reed, R. N. (2012). Invasive Pythons in the United States: Ecology of an Introduced Predator. Annual Review of Ecology, Evolution, and Systematics, 43(1), 451–472. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-ecolsys-102710-145026Penning, D. A., Dartez, S. F., & Moon, B. R. (2015). The big squeeze: Scaling of constriction pressure in snakes. Journal of Experimental Biology, 218(21), 3364–3373. https://doi.org/10.1242/jeb.126680

• Reed, R. N., & Rodda, G. H. (2009). Giant constrictors: Biological and management profiles and an establishment risk assessment for nine large species of pythons, anacondas, and the boa constrictor. U.S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 2009–1202.

• Savage, A. E., Price, S. J., & Dorcas, M. E. (2020). The ecological impact of Burmese pythons in their invasive range. Ecology and Evolution, 10(4), 1628–1640. https://doi.org/10.1002/ece3.6010

• Snow, R. W., Brien, M. L., Cherkiss, M. S., Wilkins, L., & Mazzotti, F. J. (2007). Dietary habits of the Burmese python, Python molurus bivittatus, in Everglades National Park, Florida. Herpetological Bulletin, 101, 5–7.

• Walters, T. M., Mazzotti, F. J., & Fitz, H. C. (2016). Habitat selection by the invasive species Burmese python in Southern Florida. Journal of Herpetology, 50(1), 50–56.

Popular Care Guides:

• Barker, D. G., & Barker, T. M. (2008). Pythons of the World, Volume 2: Ball Pythons and Burmese Pythons. VPI Library.

• Barker, D. G., & Barker, T. M. (2015). The Burmese Python: Its natural history, care, and breeding in captivity. VPI Library.

• Brown, L. (2018). Burmese Python Care: The complete guide to caring for and keeping Burmese pythons as pets. SRP Publishing.

• De Vosjoli, P., & Klingenberg, R. (2001). The Burmese Python Manual. Advanced Vivarium Systems.

• Greene, H. W. (1997). Snakes: The Evolution of Mystery in Nature. University of California Press. (Includes a section on Burmese python natural history and ecology.)

• Judd, T. (2024). A New Keeper’s Guide to Burmese Pythons. Beginner Herp Guides.

• McCurley, K. (2010). The Complete Burmese Python: A comprehensive guide to care, breeding, and behavior. New England Herpetoculture.

• Rossi, J. V., & Rossi, R. (1995). Snakes of the Burmese Python Group. Malabar Publishing.

Substrate:

Due to their adult size, Burmese pythons can generally be housed with any reptile-safe substrate. Managing distinct microclimates becomes increasingly challenging for adults, so careful planning is essential. For hatchlings and juveniles, providing a moss-filled hiding spot is highly recommended as it helps maintain a localized area of high humidity, promoting proper shedding and enhancing their sense of security. Burmese pythons can be housed on paper, but if you choose this option, a moist box is essential for maintaining adequate humidity. Alternatively, pure cypress bedding and a variety of coconut-based substrates are commonly used. However, never use pine or cedar bedding, as these are toxic to reptiles. For our large Burmese pythons, we use a combination of cypress bedding, coconut coir, and soil to create a naturalistic, manageable substrate. For juvenile pythons, we find it easier to use paper substrate along with controllable containers of wet moss rather than bedding. Juveniles often overturn their water bowls, and with thick substrates, this can be difficult to drain. Newspaper or butcher paper is more practical in these situations, as it can be easily replaced. Regardless of the substrate type, regular spot-cleaning and full substrate changes every 1–3 months (depending on enclosure conditions) are essential to maintain cleanliness and prevent bacterial growth.

Temperature and Humidity:

The key to successfully caring for a Burmese python is providing a temperature gradient, not a uniform temperature. In the wild, these snakes move between thermal zones to regulate their body temperature. Burmese pythons need a "hot side" maintained at 88–92°F (31–33°C), with enough space for their entire body, and a "cool side" at 75–80°F (24–27°C). For our animals, we set the hot side at 90°F (32°C) and let the cool side stabilize at room temperature, around 70–72°F (21–22°C). If a snake spends too much time on the warm side, we raise the gradient slightly; if it stays on the cool side, we lower the hot spot for comfort. Heat pads or radiant heat panels are preferred over heat lights, but all heat sources must be connected to a thermostat to prevent overheating. While heat lights can be used, we caution against this. Burmese pythons are long enough to easily reach the lights within the cages, and this can result in breaking heat sources, and potentially killing the snake.

Humidity is equally critical. Burmese pythons need a relative humidity of 50–70%, with occasional fluctuations. Their native Southeast Asian environment has variable humidity, so exact consistency is unnecessary. Ensure at least one area of the enclosure provides higher humidity, especially during shedding. Use damp sphagnum moss or coconut fiber under a hide to create a high-humidity microclimate, checking weekly to keep it slightly damp. Avoid waterlogging the substrate. Place hygrometers near the substrate on both the hot and cool sides for accurate readings, as humidity levels near the top of the enclosure are less representative of the snake's environment. This approach ensures your Burmese python has the right thermal and humidity conditions for optimal health.

Lighting:

Burmese pythons are generally nocturnal, meaning they are most active during the night. In the wild, they tend to hunt, explore, and thermoregulate after sunset. However, their behavior can be influenced by environmental factors such as temperature, humidity, and availability of prey. For captive lighting, we suggest low intensity LED lighting, and if possible, it would be least risky to house the lighting outside the cage. If lighting is mounted within the cage (like in many PVC enclosures), be sure that it is securely mounted. Your snake will surely attempt to climb on it.

Diet and Feeding:

The natural diet of Burmese pythons (Python bivittatus) is highly variable and depends on the size of the individual and the availability of prey in their habitat. Hatchlings and juveniles primarily feed on small mammals, birds, and amphibians, while larger adults are capable of preying on animals as large as deer and alligators (Reed & Rodda, 2009). Burmese pythons are opportunistic feeders, consuming a wide range of prey that includes rodents, rabbits, waterfowl, and reptiles (Snow et al., 2007). Their diet also reflects their role as ambush predators; they rely on camouflage and patience to capture prey in the dense vegetation of their native Southeast Asian habitats (Savage et al., 2020). Invasive populations, such as those in the Florida Everglades, have demonstrated significant impacts on local ecosystems, preying on native mammals, birds, and reptiles, including endangered species (Dorcas et al., 2012). This broad diet and adaptability to prey availability contribute to their ecological success both in their native and invasive ranges.

Captive Burmese pythons typically consume rodents and, as they grow, larger prey such as rabbits or poultry. Hatchlings can start with hopper mice or small rats, gradually increasing prey size as they grow. A good rule is to offer prey about the same width as the snake’s body. After feeding, there should be a noticeable lump in their belly—if not, increase the prey size at the next feeding. Adults often eat jumbo rats, rabbits, or poultry depending on their size and nutritional needs.

Whenever possible, feed frozen-thawed prey instead of live prey to minimize risks of injury or stress to the snake and reduce unnecessary suffering for the prey. While some snakes may require live prey, transitioning to frozen-thawed is strongly recommended. Feeding frequency depends on age and size. Hatchlings should eat every 5–7 days, juveniles every 7–14 days, and adults every 3–6 weeks. Monitor your snake’s weight and behavior to adjust their feeding schedule as needed.

Water:

Provide a water dish large enough for your Burmese python to soak in if desired. These snakes are excellent swimmers, so depth is generally not an issue as long as they can easily climb out. For large Burmese pythons, a sturdy tub or low bin may be necessary to accommodate their size. Place the water container on the cool side of the enclosure to reduce evaporation and help maintain proper humidity levels. Clean and refill the water dish regularly with fresh, dechlorinated water, and immediately clean it if the snake defecates in it. If you notice excessive soaking behavior, this may indicate stress, mites, or overheating and should be investigated promptly.

A water source that can house an adult Burmese python properly would be quite large and most cages cannot house a water source of such size. We suggest using the largest water bowl possible and for our largest girls, we place a Rubbermaid tub in the enclosure filled halfway with water. We do this every few months to provide a quiet area to soak. This also provides an easier method to clean and work within the enclosure while the snake is resting.

Hides and Structures:

From our experience, this is an often overlooked need for all animals, including Burmese pythons. Take a moment to consider their perspective. While we see a captive and secure environment, they instinctively remain vigilant for predators, worry about exposure, and aim to avoid detection. Including plants, branches, and other objects in a Burmese python's enclosure can provide enrichment, mimic their natural environment, and reduce stress. Sturdy climbing branches, cork bark, or large logs can encourage exploration, stretching, and exercise for these large snakes. Live or artificial plants enhance the enclosure's appearance while providing additional cover to help the snake feel secure. Ensure all items are securely placed to prevent tipping or injury, and only use materials that are easy to clean and safe for reptiles. In bioactive setups, live plants can also help maintain humidity and create a more naturalistic, enriching habitat.

For our larger pythons, we suggest using an upside down concrete mixing tub from a local hardware store with a cave opening cut out of it. They are strong enough that they can be buried in substrate. This would provide a large hiding area while also maintaining the surface area available for the snake to access. The only problem with this method is that you will face difficulties in getting the animal out without reaching inside their cave (not suggested) or moving the substrate every time. If we need to remove the snake from their rest area, we coax them out with food.

Handling and Health Checks:

When handling a Burmese python, approach it calmly and confidently from the side, avoiding sudden movements or reaching over its head to minimize stress. Always support its body fully and evenly, especially for larger snakes, allowing the snake to feel secure while gently guiding its movement. Handle your Burmese python for short sessions initially, gradually increasing time as the snake becomes accustomed to handling. Avoid overhandling, as this can stress the snake. For large adults, ensure you have a second person present for safety during handling. Avoid handling during shedding or within 48 hours after feeding, as these are times when the snake is more sensitive or prone to regurgitation. If the snake shows signs of stress, such as hissing, defensive posturing, or retreating, return it to its enclosure to let it relax.

While handling your Burmese python, perform a quick health check by inspecting its body for signs of illness or injury. Look for clear eyes, smooth scales, and a clean vent area free of swelling or discharge. Check for retained shed, especially around the eyes (retained eye caps) and tail tip, which can lead to complications. Feel gently along the snake’s body for unusual lumps, bumps, or softness, which could indicate underlying issues. Observe its behavior for signs of respiratory distress, such as wheezing or open-mouth breathing, and ensure its mouth is free of lesions or excess mucus, which might suggest mouth rot. For large snakes, check for signs of scale damage or abrasions caused by improper enclosure conditions. Regular checks like this help you catch potential health problems early.

A final point to address is how to behaviorally train your larger snakes. When Burmese pythons are small, they are often more defensive and may exhibit behaviors that you would not want to see in an adult. As a rule, when we handle our hatchlings and juveniles, they are handled on our schedule, not theirs. If they strike or bite while being held, we continue handling them for at least five minutes. This ensures they do not associate such behavior with being put down or left alone. While bites and strikes from small snakes are relatively harmless, the behavioral training during this stage is crucial. Adult Burmese pythons can cause significant harm, so establishing what constitutes acceptable behavior early on is very important. Proper handling and consistent interactions during their juvenile stage set the foundation for a calm and manageable adult snake.

A 9 ft Burmese python living in a 4 x 3 ft enclosure resulting in 1.3 sq ft per linear ft of snake.

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